When I arrived in Kunming, which is located in the Yunnan province of China, a curious thing happened; the city was Yang.
Now, why would anyone say that? Sure die in the woods, Feng Shui addicts like myself unfortunately view landscapes as expressions of Yin and Yang or a combination of both and their exhibition of Qi (Chi energy) in a Sheng (auspicious) or Sha (inauspicious) form. And as such, attaching myself to them as a place to be in or prefer not to be. Why can`t I just look at a landscape and learn to enjoy it for what it offers?
To someone like me, Kunming is missing out on the Qi auspicious stakes. I think so because I had been influenced by first impressions, waking up (after sleeping in a hard sleeper compartment) on a 20 hour train ride from Chengdu to Kunming. The 800 or so Kilometre journey partly taken up looking out of the train window, enthralled by the incredible productive and picturesque landscapes scattered along and drawing themselves away within misty hills into secluded valleys. Basically doing so until we left those fertile slopes and valleys and wound our way into torturous mountains, where slopes increased and the impact from the Chinese peasant and farmer becoming nonexistent. Soils barren, infertile and clinging to steep slopes resisting any intrusions by the Chinese to touch them in any way.
These were hostile places for mankind, yet beautiful in their natural grandeur and finally disappearing as the sun set and the train journeying into the night. As a bypass, China`s rail system is very proficient. Dual concrete sleeper tracks, some electrification present, rail tunneling through and around mountains, transcending ravines on suspended bridges, quiet and running on time. Hey, I`m jealous, why can`t we have something of China`s rail systems?
Coming back to Kunming and its Yang landscapes and the train passing through different countryside to that of Chengdu. Hills bare of vegetation, soils clayish grey and stony, stone outcroppings, rivers and streams dry and no rice to be seen. Kunming is in drought, waiting for summer rains, dusty, hot and dry in nature as all places become when relying on rainfall and the flush of new life in the natural landscapes.
These are Yang characteristics, yet I noticed the good people of Kunming were exhibiting something of the landscape`s nature. Kunming`s people, appeared (to a casual observer) to be not as friendly when compared to the Chengdu Chinese. They seemed more purposeful, direct and wanting to quell nature rather than transpose themselves within it. Kunming is a bustling city, but unblessed on our visit by the greenery and bounty of places such as Chengdu, which is more harmonised by naturalness and bountiful beauty.
It`s not to say don`t go down to Kunming. I`m sure the rains will come soon and green up the parched earth, fill the paddies for rice to become established and soften the air so Kunming`s people can breathe in vital Qi and restore harmony into their lives. As an aside, Kunming`s streets and boulevards are becoming lined with trees of the instant kind, so the day will arise when Kunming`s image of Yang will abate. Besides, Kunming`s food is delicious and so is their provincial tea.
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